Colouring Textiles: A History of Natural Dyestuffs in by Agustí Nieto-Galan (auth.)

By Agustí Nieto-Galan (auth.)

Colouring Textiles is an try to supply a brand new cross-cultural comparative method of the paintings of dyeing and printing with usual dyestuffs within the eighteenth and 19th centuries. Divided into thematic chapters, it uncovers new facts from the colossal ancient background of traditional dyestuffs from various ecu towns, to offer new historiographic insights for the certainty of this know-how. via a kind of anatomic dissection, the ebook explores the examine and cultivation of dye-plants in botanical gardens and plantations, and the tacit values hidden in dyeing workshops, factories, laboratories, or nationwide and overseas exhibitions. It metaphorically submits the normal dyestuffs of the eighteenth and 19th centuries to a chain of systematic ancient checks, and lines again the flow of these resources of colors via colonial areas, dye works, cross-cultural networks, colleges of creative layout, and science-based industries for the making of man-made colorants.
Colouring Textiles contributes to a greater figuring out of the function of usual dyestuffs within the methods of industrialization in Western Europe.
Audience: Historians of technology and know-how, historians of chemistry, philosophers, financial historians, expert chemists, arts and crafts historians, and cultural anthropologists.

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4. APPENDIX: NATURAL DYESTUFFS IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES In addition to Dominique Cardon and Gaetan du Chatenet's comprehensive treatise of natural dyestuffs, published in 1990, and Franco Brunella's interesting historical data, the primary sources from the eighteenth and nineteenth century also provide excellent descriptive data on the plants and animals used in the industrial age of natural dyes. This short glossary is intended as a summary of the most important details of the main dyestuffs used during the period covered by this book.

In Canals' view, the lack of an efficient colonial policy allowed foreigners (mainly French and English) to obtain cochineal at a very low price in the Spanish American colonies. I 52 In the late eighteenth century, agronomists also tried to acclimatize the cochineal insect in France. Because of its lower price, kermes was another potential alternative to the coccus, 153 and nopal trees were an alternative habitat for the cochineal insect. I 54 In 1781, other experiments carried out at the Go be/ins aimed to reduce the consumption of cochineal and, at the same time, to try to improve its dyeing power.

Ctws. 452 In the mid nineteenth century, when Michel-Eugene Chevreul was the director of dyeing at the French Manufacture of the Gobelins in Paris, colonial dyestuffs were systematically collected for study. a Marine, des Colonies, et du Commerce provided him with all sorts of samples from Guiana, Senegal, India and elsewhere, from which he compiled an encyclopedia of dyes, including materials presented at domestic and international exhibitions. 117 Interestingly, this musee des matieres tinctoriales tacitly existed in workshops, dyeing manufactures and calico-printing industries when trying to find the right balance between colonial and indigenous dyestuffs in each formula.

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